Book Club Chapter 4: Processing
- Feel free to bring snacks and a drink.
- Its a think tank format using as our guide for discussion Peggy Blum's Circular Fashion book. This week we are diving into Chapter 4: Processing.
- Remember to bring your creativity and passion for sustainable fashion to the book club!
- Don't forget your mending or upcycling creative fashion project.
- Not a child friendly environment (There are chocking hazards like pins, scissors, a child unfriendly cat and no child minding offered). However, mamas feel free to come to join us at lunch and op-shop tour part :) ).
These are the questions we will discuss:
1. Currently labels only need Fiber content and country of origin. Should they list the chemicals? How and is anyone doing this?
2. These two questions have the same answer : Why do you need to visit the textile facility? Why do we need to source and use textile production that complies with a third party?
3. Do we ask bands who made my textile and what chemicals are in what I wear?
4. Should companies pay for the damage water pollution has caused by their brands?
This topic is so important because it's where we can finally measure the true environmental impact of producing a piece of clothing. At this stage, the reality comes to light, revealing the harm caused by the chemicals used in fashion production.
Did you know that many of the chemicals used in processing contain carcinogens—substances known to cause cancer—that also pollute waterways? Despite this, fashion brands are not required to disclose their production methods or the chemicals they use. It’s unbelievable!
If you want to explore this further, check out Alden Wicker's 2023 article in The Gradian, "Are Your Clothes Making You Sick? The Opaque World of Chemicals in Fashion."
Key Terms and Facts for Discussion:
Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs): Used to make fabrics water-repellent. When they break down, they can affect liver function and disrupt hormones.
Formaldehyde: Prevents shrinking, wrinkling, and mildew in clothes. It’s also a known respiratory irritant and carcinogen.
Flame Retardants: Added to prevent the spread of fire but are linked to hormone disruption and possibly cancer.
Cadmium, Mercury, and Lead: Found in many dyes, these toxic heavy metals damage the human nervous system and kidneys.
AZO Dyes: Make up 60-70% of all dyes used in textiles. They release carcinogens, making them a significant cancer risk.
Non-Organic Cotton: Saturated with pesticides, insecticides, and fertilizers, leaving a massive toxic footprint. Wool is similarly treated with chemicals.
Carbon Disulfate: The solvent used in rayon production. It is known to harm the reproductive system and endanger factory workers, surrounding communities, and waterways.
Polyester: Contains dihydric acid and terephthalic acid, which can absorb into wet skin, causing dermatitis and respiratory issues. Polyester production consumes about 342 million barrels of oil annually, making it a significant contributor to fossil fuel reliance and environmental damage. Polyester takes 20 to 200 years to break down, and when washed, it releases microplastics into the ocean, which re-enter our food chain via fish.
In her book, Peggy Blum highlights two key opportunities within circular design to phase out toxic and unsustainable textile manufacturing: a) Replacing harmful processes with safer alternatives. b) Developing greener chemicals, methods, and techniques to reduce environmental and human harm.
As a designer these are my tips to reduce your chemical impact in the textile process:
- Ensuring that manufacturing facilities, particularly dyeing plants, have effective effluent treatment systems. VISIT THE FACILITY!
- Collaborating with suppliers to gradually replace toxic chemicals with safer alternatives, and partnering with companies that provide eco-friendly solutions.
- Exploring the use of natural dyes instead of synthetic ones during the product design phase.
- Integrating sustainably sourced fabrics and alternatives to chemicals into pricing models and purchasing decisions.
- Partnering with other companies in programs like Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), which offer a roadmap for reducing chemical use in the textile and footwear sectors.
- Sourcing materials, dyes, and fabrics that comply with third-party certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Oeko-Tex Standard 100, bluesign®, or the EU Ecolabel.
I was able to achieve this on a small scale. I knew exactly where my cotton was sourced, who my weavers were, and who dyed and printed my fabrics. So, when people claim that only big businesses can afford that level of transparency, it’s simply not true. They choose not to do it to cut costs. In fact, I would argue that as a small brand, we actually have the advantage of knowing everyone involved in the making of our clothes.
Water!!!! Did you know that everything you wear required a thousand liters of water to produce it? One area that fashion is getting better is measuring its water footprint.
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water globally, using approximately 79 billion cubic meters of water annually. This is especially alarming when considering that 2.7 billion people face water scarcity. The fast fashion industry consumes a massive amount of water, while billions lack access to enough drinking water. For context, producing a single cotton t-shirt requires 2,700 liters of water—equivalent to one person’s drinking water for 900 days. (source: https://sustainablecampus.fsu.edu/blog/clothed-conservation-fashion-water)
Textile waste water is the most hazardous waste water for ecosystems when discharged into waterways without proper treatment. despite this over 50% of it ends up in waste water.
I encourage you to watch this documentary on how fashion is polluting Indonesia's Citarum River.
We can close the loop on water waste by:
- Shop second-hand: Explore local thrift stores, consignment shops, and resale platforms.
- Extend your clothing’s lifespan: Wash less frequently or by hand, air dry, treat stains promptly, and mend when necessary.
- Donate or resell unused clothing: Instead of discarding unwanted items, donate to a local charity or sell to consignment/resale stores.
- Invest in quality clothing: Choose durable, timeless pieces that won’t go out of style.
- Avoid fast fashion brands.
- Support sustainable cotton brands: Look for certifications like 100% organic, GOTS Certified Organic, recycled, Fairtrade, or Better Cotton Initiative.
If you are a designer and new textiles are being produced, Peggy Blum in her book encourages the use of assessment tools such :
ZDHC Road map: You can find the manufacturers and brands who are not afraid of being transparent and have a genuine objective to reduce toxic chemicals in the fashion processing stage.
The Higgs Materials Sustainability Index: It helps you understand the cradle-to-grave impacts of different materials (such as textiles, plastics, metal and leather) and how processing decisions can change the impact, such as the use of certification materials - Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Oeko-Tex Standard 100, bluesign®, or the EU Ecolabel.
Lots of love,
Yvie xo
Green America score card:
https://ausfashioncouncil.com/program/seamless/