• Feel free to bring snacks and a drink. 
• Its a think tank format using as our guide for discussion Peggy Blum's Circular Fashion book. This week we are diving into Chapter 3: Materials. 
• Remember to bring your creativity and passion for sustainable fashion to the book club!
• Don't forget your mending or upcycling creative fashion project. 

The question we will be discussing in our think tank, are just these four questions:

1. What fabric do you like to wear and why?

2. Where do you see the future of fashion in relation to materials and why?  

3. How do you think companies will use these in green washing techniques? 

4. We are going to look at H&M as our case study.  Can fast fashion be eco?

(Want to dig deeper, we recommend this academic paper trying to answer this question: EXAMINING GREENWASHING IN H&M´S ENVIRONMENTAL GREEN ADVERTISING ON INSTAGRAM) 

These are the key concepts from our book club book that we will look at to answer the above question:

1. Choice of materials used, why it is important?

Key quotes:

"Across market segments, it determines up to 2/3 of the brands water emissions, energy and land use". 

"If consumption patterns continue at its current rate, we will need 3 x as many natural resources by the year 2050, compared to that used in 2020"

2. The resources used- Air, water, land, natural chemicals, energy = Environmental Foot print. 

3. Discuss how "biodegradable materials" is being used in green washing. What prevents it from being regenerative and environmentally friendly. 

Did you know that a 100% polyester shirt takes 20 yrs to breakdown. Some synthetic fibers can take up to a thousand years!

4. What should we do about this?  Reuse, repair, remanufacture, recycle. 

5. Know your fibers to avoid green washing:

Image Source: https://gpktt.weebly.com/classification-of-textile-fibers.html

6. know the two verifying standards: Organic content Standard (OCS) and the Global organic Textile standard (GOTS).

Note - Different raw material requirements: OCS contains more than 5% of raw materials that meet the recognized organic standards, while GOTS requires more stringent requirements. It requires 70% organic natural fibers, no blending, and up to 10% synthetic or recycled fiber.

7. Closing the loop good examples and facts in relation to natural fibers. Discuss these in relation to main think tank question.

Re:down - recycles feathers from post consumer goods.

Wool is the most easily reused of all textile fibers.

Microsilk - has the potential to create a completely closed circular loop.

Linen- Requires little water and can survive on rainwater alone. Twice as strong as cotton.  Eileen Fisher uses organic cotton for her collection.

Conventional cotton is the most resource intensive crop produced in the world. Harmful toxins pollute water ways, soil, destroying eco systems and the health of people.  

The Better Cotton Initiative - A not for profit org who work on getting getter cotton. Its not GOTS but its a step in the right direction. 

Hemp - Grows without chemicals in any climate, minimal water and can restore soil health. Good example - DevoHome (Ukrainian Brand) the hemp is even grown near the factory. 

Accessory brand - Freitag  - Custom make your own bag from waste materials.

Cork leather - eco, recyclable and biodegradable. 

Pinatex - made from pineapple waste product.

Orange Fiber  - Silk alternative made from waste by product. 

Bananatex - made from banana leaf.

Mylium - Mushroom/ mycelium fabric.  

Bamboo - Does not require irrigation or pesticides. or fertilizer. However, harsh chemicals and lotd water are needed to make the textile, but can be done in a closed loop system . Want to know more read - How sustainable is it? 

8. Closing the loop, good examples and facts in relation to artificial and synthetic fibers. Discuss these in relation to main think tank question. Should a fabric that already exists on earth be considered an eco alternative for fashion designers ?   

Artificial = Rayon - viscose, lyocell and modal - Toxic chemicals and lots of water to make.   Lyocell and modal are derived from plant material and can now be processed by a non toxic process (NMMO). The process can be done in a closed loop. Tencel is a brand of lyocell made from sustainably grown eucalyptus forests. 

Synthetic - Strong, durable, easy to dye - CHEAP to make.  Polyester and Nylon made from petroleum. 

"262% more CO2 is emitted to make a single   polyester tshirt than a cotton one" 

Adidas and Parley collaboration  - Use  ocean waste plastic as an alternative.

9. Biowaste -Using waste products from post consumer waste. Great example is Parblex  (great for buttons and zips). Another is Agraloop .

In the face of retail challenges, we made a conscious decision to take a radical and rebellious stand against the harsh economic climate, the war on waste, and the encroachment of Western culture. To truly make a difference, we are committed to sourcing exclusively from producers who create the most significant positive impact for both the planet and marginalized people. That’s why we chose to partner with Mulberries in Laos.

Laos, one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia, who face significant economic challenges. Let us look at a comparison to get the picture on percent of population living on less than poverty thresholds compared to Australia. This table uses percentage of population (including non-citizens) living on less than $2.15, $3.65 and $6.85 a day using international (PPP) dollars, this is  what an international dollar would buy in the cited country a comparable amount of goods and services a U.S. dollar would buy in the United States ( data as per the World Bank and Our World in Data).  A reminder of how good most of us we have it here compared to other countries. I think a lot of people have forgotten this. 

(Source:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_percentage_of_population_living_in_poverty)

Many communities, especially in rural areas, struggle with limited access to education, healthcare, and employment opportunities. For marginalized groups, including ethnic minorities and women, these challenges are even more pronounced.

By supporting Mulberries, we are contributing to the empowerment of these marginalized communities. Mulberries provides fair wages, safe working conditions, and educational opportunities, helping artisans—many of whom are women—achieve financial independence and improve their quality of life. This partnership allows us to align our business with our values, ensuring that every purchase supports sustainable development and cultural preservation in Laos.

Moving forward, our commitment to only buying from impactful producers like Mulberries ensures that our business is not just about retail but about creating meaningful change for both people and the planet.

When we pick a producer these are the points we look at:

How Does It Protect Cultural Heritage and Identity?

For centuries, the women of Laos have passed down the intricate art of silk weaving from generation to generation, creating textiles that are not just beautiful but also rich with history and symbolism. These handcrafted textiles carry the stories, beliefs, and values of the people who create them, making them invaluable cultural artifacts.

"As globalization continues to blur the lines between distinct cultures, the unique practices and traditions of small communities are at risk of being lost forever. By preserving and promoting these traditional skills, we ensure that future generations can access the rich cultural diversity that defines our world." - Yvie

Does It Support Fair Trade Practices?

Mulberries ensures that the artisans receive fair compensation for their work, which in turn supports their families and communities. They are un fact a Guaranteed World Fair Trade Organization who proudly can display the mark of a business that follows all the ten principles of Fair Trade.

Supporting traditional artisan skills like those at Mulberries contributes to the development of employment opportunities that empower communities, while honoring and respecting their cultural heritage.

Moreover, Mulberries, the entire process—from growing mulberry trees to harvesting silk and weaving textiles—is done sustainably, minimizing environmental impact while preserving the natural resources of the region. There is no waste! For example;

"The unreelable outer layer on the cocoon is saved to create stuffing in pillows and blankets. The silkworm pupae are enjoyed by the Lao villagers who find them an excellent source of protein. Even the silk water is saved as the women prize it as a skin moisturizer." - Mulberries

Do They practice Environmental Stewardship?
Yes! The silk weaving process at Mulberries is a testament to this. By using organic farming methods and natural dyes, the cooperative avoids the harmful chemicals used in industrial textile production. This not only protects the environment but also ensures the health and safety of the artisans and their communities.

Their traditional artisan practice embodies a deep respect for nature, as they are rooted in an understanding of the natural world that has been passed down through generations. This knowledge is crucial in the fight against climate change and environmental degradation. By preserving these skills, we can learn from the wisdom of the past and apply it to create a more sustainable future.

We came to the conclusion that the preservation of traditional artisan skills, such as the silk weaving practices of Laos' Mulberries cooperative, is vital for maintaining cultural heritage, supporting sustainable economies, and protecting the environment. In a world where industrialization and globalization threaten to erase the diversity and richness of our cultural landscapes, it is more important than ever to recognize the value of these skills and to support the artisans who keep them alive.

Thankyou for taking the time to read this.  

Love,

Yvie xo

Ps. Together we can change the world 

Tomorrow our book-club Starts 9:30 @ 20 Robb St Belmont.

• Feel free to bring snacks and a drink. 
• Its a think tank format using  Chapter 2 - Design Thinking & Rethinking in Peggy Blum's Circular Fashion book as our guide for discussion. 
• Remember to bring your creativity and passion for sustainable fashion to the book club! Don't forget your mending or upcycling creative fashion project. 

These are the key concepts we will look at:

A. What Has Changed in the Design Thinking  Process

Traditional Fashion Design (p. 21-23) Is a model were fashion on Autopilot: Designers called the shots, with personal style and seasonal trends dictating everything.

The Influencer Explosion: Thanks to the internet, fashion inspiration is everywhere!

 The Problem: This fast-paced, trend-driven system leads to environmental disaster (think "cheap clothes, worn once").

Enter Design Thinking! (p. 24-25)

It is a human-Centered Design process: This approach places the user (and the planet!) at the heart of the process.

The 5 Principles of Design Thinking: (p. 28-30)

Problem-First: We ditch preconceived solutions and focus on understanding the issue.
Empathy is Key: Understanding the user's needs and desires is crucial.
Brainstorm Like Crazy: No idea is too wild! Get creative!
Prototype & Test: Build rough models to test and refine your solutions.
Adapt & Evolve: Learn from failures and iterate on your ideas.
Stella McCartney's Vegan Collection: (p. 29) A great example of problem-focused design!

B. Circular Fashion Design Considerations: (p. 30-39)

Slow Fashion, Not Fast: Design clothes built to last, with quality materials and timeless appeal.

The 6 Steps of Slow Design: (p.32)
Reveal: Understand the problem (environmental impact of fashion).
Expand: Research materials, user needs, and sustainability.
Reflect: Think deeply about the garment's life cycle.
Engage: Collaborate with different stakeholders.
Participate: Involve consumers in the design process.
Evolve: Continuously improve and adapt designs.

Durability Design: (p. 32) Think functionality AND emotional connection. People cherish clothes they love!

Repairability: (p. 33-34) Embrace Wabi-Sabi (beauty in imperfection).

• Think Borro's clothes with repair options (pg. 34).
• Offer repair kits that complement garment styles.
• Nuddie jeans with life time mendability as value add-on to sale.
• Cool example of this Tom Van Deijnen (@tomofholland) • Instagram photos and videos

Biodegradability: (p. 34) Let our clothes return to the earth naturally!

Dematerialization: (p. 36) Less is more! Reduce material usage and waste. Simple designs. 

Zero-waste design aims for minimal offcuts.
Use scraps for other projects or donate them!

Wearable Technology & Bioculture: (p. 36) Explore innovative materials like the fungi dress! This is a thing, check these out fits out.

Design with Waste: (p. 37) Upcycle and recycle materials for a new life! This is a really good a example of a designer doing  this - ABOUT — DANIEL SILVERSTAIN.  And Susanne Guldager | Designer | Label - La Femme Rousse (fibre2fashion.com)

Group Activity: Let's redesign a clothing item with circular principles in mind!  (refer to p. 36) Think beyond the final product. How will clothes be deconstructed? (buttons, zippers, etc.)

"If you have heard news from Bangladesh recently, you will understand that the challenges of running a social enterprise in Bangladesh have increased. The past weeks have included days of internet shut down, violent protests, strict curfews, and eventually the overthrow of the government followed by anarchy, looting and targeting minority populations. Here is a clear explanation of the situation if you are interested.

Everyone on The Basha team is ok as of now, but there is a lot of fear as violence and looting continue. An interim government is being sworn in and the military is trying to get the situation under control.

Through all the challenges, we are hopeful that the new Bangladesh will truly be focused on less corruption and more opportunities for everyone. In the meantime, we are proud to be able to provide life changing, dignified employment. We also continue to provide daycare to children of our employees, run our children's home, and provide shelter for vulnerable women who don't have families they can live with. New trainees will join our training and rehabilitation program in 3 different towns soon.

Thanks for you support! We couldn't do this without you!

Best always,

Robyn and Basha / Friends of Basha Team"

And you - is YOU!  To those of you whom have purchased the beautiful one of a kind Basha scarves, kaftans and/or gifts made by this amazing organization. 

We just got in headbands, vests, kaftans and scarves from this group and want to place another order for next month.

A message to Robyn and the Basha team - We all love what you do, and will continue to support you helping the most vulnerable, while producing stunning designer products made from fabric waste.

Love,

Yvie xo

Ps. Pictured here is my beautiful friend Rachel Bardsley  showing off how beautiful these scarves are (https://theright.fit/talent/rachel-b-1):

Our first meet up: Sunday 16th June 2024,2:30-3:30 Goldbergs, Newcastle. Its FREE, all we ask is that you patron the cafe. Numbers are limited so if you are interested please contact us. 

Bring something to mend. Our meet ups are also a form of normalizing circular fashion practices as well as being inspired and learning from each other.  

At our meet up we will:
1. Each introduce ourselves and share why they are interested in the topic of circular fashion.
2. Overview of Part One: Create 
I will provide a brief summary of Part One: Create (pp. 1-68) and highlight key concepts such as the principles of circular fashion, the design process, and the role of creativity in sustainable fashion.
3. Key Concepts and Questions - It will be lead in a "think tank" kind of format (40 minutes,)

Introduction to the Author: Peggy Blum:
Peggy Blum is a renowned advocate for sustainable fashion, with extensive experience in the industry as a designer, educator, and consultant. With a background in fashion design and a deep passion for environmental stewardship, Blum has dedicated her career to promoting sustainable practices within the fashion industry. She has taught at several institutions, sharing her expertise in sustainable design, and has worked with numerous brands to help them adopt more eco-friendly and circular practices.

Introduction to the Book: Circular Fashion: Making The Fashion Industry Sustainable:

The book is structured to provide a deep understanding of how the fashion industry can transition from a linear model of production and consumption to a circular one, where materials are reused, recycled, and kept in circulation for as long as possible. 

What we are discussing this week:

Introduction : The revolution of the fashion industry & Part One: Create. We will delve into the foundational aspects of circular fashion, focusing on the design process and the choices that can lead to more sustainable outcomes. Blum introduces readers to the circular economy, emphasizing the importance of designing products that are durable, repairable, and recyclable. She explores various sustainable materials and innovative technologies that can reduce the environmental impact of fashion.

It will be a discussion or rather "think tank" questions (so its ok if you have not read the book ): 

Introduction on where fashion is at:

1. Why do all companies design with planned obsolesce (pg 12-13)? 

"A study investigating the consumption habits of young consumers found that fast fashion items typically had no more than wears. It is clear that the main stream or mass market fashion industry is intentionally creating clothing of inferior quality"  

 2. Brands introduce cycles or shapes, colors and styles to make people feel their clothing is unfashionable. Do you know of anyone who feels this pressure? 

3. How has social media has accelerated this insatiable appetite?  

"Fashion Nova, a digital fast fashion brand  works with 1000 manufacturers to introduce between 600 and 900 styles every week. this brand has more than 17 million Instagram followers"  

want to see how bad the problem is watch this - Brandy Hellville & The Cult of Fast Fashion | Official Trailer | HBO

4. Discuss : There is no denying we are in a "take- make- dispose linear supply chain. 

 "Less than 1% of materials used to produce clothing is recycled" pg 14

5.  So what?

Two types of waste -

Manufacturing waste - " According to Reverse Resources 25% of resources spill out of the original supply chain for a variety of reasons. Even though some of the materials get used else where, most get down cycled, incinerated or dumped"

Consumer waste - every second the equivalent of one garbage truck of textile waste is landfilled or burnt.

7. What about jobs?

"60 million people are employed in fashion". Most are exploited.

6. We need a new system! - how can we challenge ourselves to think more deeply about the products we create, the waste we generate, and our own clothing consumption habits?  

Part 1: Create: 

01. A circular mindset:
1. What are the main principles of the circular economy as presented in the book? 

*Nature as the inspiration = Biomimicry approach to innovation (pg. 19). 

*Following natures lead in being regenerative and restorative.  

2. How does the circular economy differ from the traditional linear economy in fashion? (think back to the history of fashion pg. 7-10)
3. How do you think the fashion industry can transition from a linear to a circular model? (We are going to brain storm this answer together : )
4. Can you think of any current brands or designers that are successfully implementing circular economy principles?

Take a look at this article by Forbes who have these listed as the 7 most sustainable and circular brands

5. What are some strategies for designing clothes that are sustainable and circular? (pp. 23-27)

*Cradle to cradle

*Performance economy the "closed loop" approach

*industrial ecology

*Natural capitalism

6. We need to change the mindset - who are the circular leaders to do this? 

*Dame Ellen Macarthur 

* Clare Press

Check out this article on The most influential sustainable fashion experts in the world by WFX . These people are all so inspiring :).

*You and I - How can we do this ? 

Next meet up we will be looking at design thinking and rethinking how its done.

I will be blogging and sharing on social media the answers to our meet up discussions, so that anyone who can't make it, can still join in the discussion :D

Looking forward to our meetup.

Lots of love,

Yvie xo