All our designs for our inhouse label of clothing “Awear social re-design” are made by hand weavers. My taste runs to the more rustic woven cloths that have a subtle texture- the handwork involved is obvious in the subtle variations of the hand spun thread and the small changes in tension that happen as the weaver goes through the day.

What can be the charm of khadi could also drive someone nuts, it does have little slubs and bumps in it sometimes, there can be subtle differences in tension of the weave from weaver to weaver. However, this is something I find absolutely charming as the fabric tells a story.

What makes khadi production even more beautiful is that when done ethically, it produces much needed work in poor rural communities.

Our label uses natural dyes because we want to protect waterways and protect producers and the community from toxic chemicals.

“With landfill and plastics at the forefront of our minds, dyeing is often overlooked when it comes to fashion’s impact on the environment. But our desire for colour is quite literally toxic, and plays a key role in the argument for more sustainable style.” (https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/5-ways-to-fix-fashions-biggest-pollution-problem-dye)

Due  pollution caused by textile production, the river Noyyal in India is so contaminated it has been rendered useless for other purposes, in fact it is so bad that its not even suitable for irrigation. 

Villages downstream from Tirupur on the Noyyal are the worst affected. Perfectly arable land has turned barren though there’s no shortage of water. In fact there is an abundance of it. Its just polluted. 

Our philosophy is that clothes that do this kind of harm are ugly, no matter how aesthetically pleasing to the eye. 

Our clothing is beautiful in every way that matters - visually and the way it feels on your skin, but most importantly  it is kind to the environment and those making it. Our clothing is special. And thus requires special and kind treatment, such as gentle washing in cold water and drying in the shade. Doing this you will get years of wear.

Natural and non-toxic dyes will fade gracefully over time. Indigo will still rub for a wash or two and will slowly fade. We assure you though, that they will fade gracefully with age. We use AMA Herbal GOTS certified natural dyes for reliable quality.

The block prints we use are water based, solvent free printing inks, they are permanent. All block printing is done by hand. Minimal water is needed to clean up after printing.

Artisan made, environmentally kind clothing is a display of love that flows between the maker and the consumer. It creates employment, improves quality of life and preserves cultural skills that have been passed down for generations. It improves social design, and that’s what our label is all about.

Lots of love,

Yvie :)

Owner, dreamer and doer @ Aware...the social design project

‘Awear… social re-design’ is our in- house label. This is our ethos…..

• Small production = Less fashion waste.
• Ethically made through a sustainable workshop (The Stitching Project), in Pushkar, India which gives fair pay to their crafts people.
• We partner with The Stitching Project because they have the same ethos as us. Together our aim is to improve the lives of those who have made our goods while also minimalizing waste.
• Our brand celebrates and stands as an advocate for eco and artisan production.
• Every piece is hand spun and handloomed (khadi), in 100% cotton. With its open weave it ventilates beautifully and because we pay for quality master artisan made fabric, the items last for years.
• The pieces are dyed with GOTS certified sustainable plant-based dyes. We do this because we want to protect waterways from pollution and ensure that our crafts people have uncontaminated drinking water.
• Our label is a “Slow Fashion Movement” brand. This means that when you choose a garment that is precious, you will wear it with intention and cherish it for many years to come.

At present there is a hunger crisis happening throughout the world caused by a multitude of factors linked to the coronavirus pandemic and the interruption of the economic order such as; the sudden loss in income for countless millions who were already living hand-to-mouth and the widespread shortages of hard currency from tourism drying up.

At this time I am actively taking on products that are getting food into mouths for those most in need. Such as our new instore bags from Colaba and Co, an already amazing businesses that provides sustainable employment to those living in the slums of Dharavi (Mumbai) . The business is switching to philanthropy in this time of need. Colaba and Co’s producer Abdul, who is seeing the starvation first hand has made a commitment during this hunger crisis to put all his profits towards feeding the hungry.

Experts around the world are saying that never before have we faced a hunger emergency like this. “In India, thousands of workers are lining up twice a day for bread and fried vegetables to keep hunger at bay.” (The New York Times)

Almost all the people in the slums are daily wage earners and during the pandemic lockdowns for those not going to work for so long, it means they have absolutely no money and hence cannot buy food.  This is a quote from a Dharavi resident “The lockdown has been extended. For us the news is clear: more days without work and food. We want you to reach out to the people of Dharavi. Please help our families with at least basic food and supplies” (m.hindustantimes.com).

Our philosophy here at Aware… the social design project is hand-up, not hand out, but sometimes, like in pandemic, a little bit of both is needed. And these beautiful handmade bags are a social design project that are making resources available at time when they are most needed.

I am very sad to share the news that the little workshop I work with in India, Lucknow, AIF Pvt Ltd, will be closing down this month. Like so many tiny businesses, we have been knocked by the impact of the coronavirus pandemic.

All the labels and designers who have worked with them are facing their own business difficulties. No matter how much they would wish things otherwise, most of them are in no position to make new orders and some have even been forced to cancel forward orders. Its a hard blow. But, by comparison we have been lucky, Every designer working with AIF ensured full payment for all the work done for them. That means the facility has been able to close in a more orderly manner, while the production team has had some time to look for work in other places.

Our big concern is for the immediate employability of the talented and highly skilled tailors. They have families to support, so we can only hope that the skills they have built working with us will make them more competitive for the few jobs on offer. 

The health crisis has hit India very badly, and India’s economy is suffering. The textiles industry has been seriously affected, as it has been everywhere. Jobs are scarce. I plan to keep in contact and do what I can to help them find a job. 

Ironically, the women whose opportunities for employment and training were the purpose of our formation in 2007 are served a little better right now. The conservative culture in which they live means that their families rally round and support women in times like these. We are proud of the fact that some of our women workers, quite vulnerable in their particular family circumstances, have been empowered by the independence they have earned by working with us, and carry a higher level of respect even as they return to the relative safety of their family homes. In future, they have skills they will be able to bring to new jobs with the confidence they have gained from working with us.

Australia should be proud that we have exceptionally amazing labels, all involved with the sustainable fashion movement, they even raised funds to support our workers during the 6 week long shutdown in March/April, when we were suddenly closed by the government and had no opportunity even to work from home. That fund-raising effort paid the salaries of the staff for the entire lockdown and enabled us to extend the amount of time we could employ our people by more than three months after the lockdown was over. To those who contributed to that campaign, THANKYOU. However, this situation can’t be strung out any longer. With the last orders nearing completion and not enough work foreshadowed for the coming months to pay rent or salaries, the production facility has had to admit defeat.

I want to thank AIF, Penny Cantle and each designers and all the special people whom have valued us, the people who make it possible to create things that put the planet and people first , over profit. These people have been leaders in the sustainable and ethical textiles movement, committing their own funds and the futures of their businesses in their determination to prove that it is possible to make beautiful things without exploiting either the planet or its people. It is a wonderful thing to know that this approach to business continues to grow, even in these difficult times. Each of the partners working with AIF, including myself, has taken the time to find a new production unit that meets our ethical standards, so it is very good to know that these labels will continue into the future, supplying us with beautiful products that we can feel good about buying. Please do continue to support these brands, and mine, so we can continue to support fair and ethical employment of textile workers. They are listed below:

Labels and businesses from which you can buy with confidence;

Carlie Ballard

Aware: the Social Design Project

Coastal Street Party

One Another Design

Moonbird

Buddhikas

Alcana

Pure Pod

Free the Label

Mamitas

Above all I would like to personally thank the key person in all of this, who has worked with me from the beginning to create a safe, supportive and happy workplace as well as a viable business. As the onsite manager in Lucknow, Pragya Singh has implemented all our plans and dreams, and is now undertaking the heartbreaking task of pulling it all apart. Everyone who has worked with AIF, as employee, supplier and customer, owes her a huge debt of gratitude for the way she has done her multi-faceted job with both efficiency and heart.  

There are more testing times ahead, especially for the poor. I dread them and feel powerless in the situation creating them, but I am confident that a larger number of people with the means to buy thoughtfully will do just that, now and into the future. More and more of us will ask the question, “Who made my clothes?” and shop only where we can receive an answer that gives us certainty that our purchase has done no harm.

****Words have been taken and revised to articulate my own sentiments with approval from Penny Cantle, my dear Fair Trade mentor, friend and founder of AIF****

Photos such as these are now more treasured than ever... My heart pains to think of all the stress they are under during this time. I wish I was in a position to do more :(.

Here are a few customers who LOVED what they have purchased from 'Aware...the social design project'. I am so grateful to have such amazing customers. Pro-sumers and advocates for Fair Trade. Makes me feel encouraged and hopeful that I will make it through this very strange time.

Keep safe.

Love,

Yvie xo 

For centuries beautiful textile designs have been made by hand. The most recognisable method is the art of block printing, a process that is both labour intensive and time consuming.

The process involves firstly using a hammer and a chisel to expertly carve the chosen design into a block of wood - carving a block can take anywhere from an hour for a small piece, to several weeks or even months depending on the size and detail of the image. Unfortunately, many block print makers are caught up in the hidden economy and are exploited (not paid fairly) for their amazing skill. That’s why we sell block prints in-store, these artisans deserve to be appreciated for their skill as the blocks are themselves works of art!

Here is an example of some of the blocks sold in-store and online:

The next process to create a print onto fabric involves the block being dipped into a dye tray, and expertly stamped onto the fabric with a hard pound of the fist, ensuring even printing. This will be repeated from left to right, aligning the blocks perfectly by eye. To master this skill takes years of experience.

This is an example of how beautiful the end result is:

As mentioned earlier, makers of blocks are prone to being undervalued. Why does this happen? Because, their work is done in the shadowy areas of fashion,  where the supply chain is unregulated, leading to lack of transparency and industry protection. 

Thanks to the Fashion revolution movement, consumers are asking "where did our clothes come from?". But, we need to go further. By asking clothing manufacturers of artisan block printed clothing, "who made the blocks". My hope is that we don't stop there....lets ask "who made the buttons", "who made the zip", "who made the cotton". Fair Trade should be an entitlement for everyone. Not just the sewing production unit. Please ask the questions, so that light is thrown into the shadowy areas of the fashion industry.  

Love,

Yvie xo

Photo on header sourced from:  

http://architecturetraveljournal.blogspot.com/2012/11/anokhi-in-india.html